Saturday morning, we’re up early for our departure. Chris and I shower dress and load our car before we wake the kids. Rick’s up early too but as usual Steph and Al sleep until the last possible moment.
Kris and Antonio had arranged to stay in the house one more night, since no one was renting during the next week, Rebecca and Mark seemed most open to the idea for an additional fee. We let them sleep as we creep to the car, for our 8:15ish departure.
We drive back towards the S146 and take that road all the way to Chiusi Scala basically not going up the hill towards old Chiusi (on the left), and following signs for the train station. Where I expected the station to be before Chiusi, it’s really after, coming from the west. We fill the cars at a gas station along the road near the A1 and other than incredible amounts of fog, have little problem reaching our destination.
The Avis station is located right across the street from the train station. It couldn’t be better located. It is closed though when we arrive, and as we prepare to get back into the cars to move them to a lot around the corner, a man arrives and opens the office. He tells us to leave the cars and a few minutes later we’re done and head across the street.
Chris and I try to use the machines to purchase the tickets but for some reason have no luck, so we opt to go to the window, which has no line. We purchase seven first class tickets but cannot get seat reservations. First class is $12.00 more total than second class and I hope that we have better luck finding seats in first class.
I stop for a cappuccino and cornetto then we head to the track. We waited outside for a good twenty minutes (the train is about 5 minutes late) then pile on board. As I feared, there were no seats, and the seven of us, and our luggage stand crammed inside a narrow hallway that runs along the first class compartments. Eventually, three different gentlemen in three different compartments give up their seats for the girls. And really, it wouldn’t have been bad but the train runs into two delays (at the Orte station – the train stops at Orte and Orvietto), and one outside the Orte station, which makes us about forty minutes late and makes the entire experience last almost two hours.
Finally, reaching termini – a bit tired and cranky, we hop in some cabs with the help of gypsies who then of course insisted upon a donation, though we never asked for their help to begin with, and returned to the Del Senato.
I cannot get over how crowded Rome seems this Saturday compared to our mid-week visit the previous week. People cram the Piazza Della Rotunda so you can barely walk.
We drop our bags in the hotel, freshened up a bit and headed over to Pasquales for lunch. We hoped to meet Peter there for a farewell tour but he never shows. Later we find out his clients that morning weren’t in the mood for pizza so they visited a different establishment instead.
We share artichoke pizza, pizza with mushroom and sausage and the zucchini pizza, which I think is now my new favorite and left after a passing shower finished, then off to Della Palma for gelato. OMG ! I can’t believe all the flavors; we pay first then go to place our orders. This time I try the pignolli and the white chocolate, love the second but am not crazy about the former. Sammi isn’t crazy about her fior di latte and since Alison can’t find a flavor at Della Palma that appeals to her, we make a second stop at the gelato store next to the hotel.
After our fortifications, we are off to do some shopping. Our first stop is the jewelry store near the Portugese church, S. Antonio dei Portoghesi, that Peter had pointed out to us the previous week. They had some interesting gold pieces that reminded me of Etruscan designs (and made me wish again we’d visit Cortona and Deborah’s friend Alex’s shop). Unfortunately, the shop is closed and almost looks as if it had no intention of reopening, ever.
Next stop, the leather store on the road that connects the Piazza Navona to Campo dei Fiori. Rick spied a knapsack there for his other daughter, Cassie, who couldn’t join us on this trip. Once purchase made, we head back towards the hotel. Rick and Chris head off in search of something, oh, now I remember. There’s a print that hangs on the wall opposite the elevator in the hotel that shows all the buildings surrounding the Piazza Della Rotunda but in one long print. Both men (and me too) love this print and they’re searching for it in some local stores but to no avail.
Meanwhile, the girls go hunting for Nomination charms and for a store Becky and I passed on the way to the bus last week, which had some ceramics I love. Our first stop for Nomination charms at the store just outside the piazza proves fruitless. They’re closed for siesta.
Next, we find the store with the ceramics but I dally and again, to my regrets once home, didn’t purchase the platter I saw and loved. The owner of that store directed us to another jewelry store on Via D. Caravita (on the right just before you get to Del Corso), where we are able to purchase charms. Becky buys the Pantheon and Sammi one that says Roma. I finally get my bracelet with a sole Pantheon charm. Al and Stephanie also buy charms and I buy a bracelet for my niece for her birthday with four charms.
Once we complete our purchases, we head back to the hotel for our own afternoon siesta.
After showers and baths, Sammi rushes us downstairs to the bar for our final night of drinks where she hopes Michele will again ply her with potato chips. Unfortunately, the few tables in the bar are filled and we must adjourn to the not so nice backroom area. Chris tracks down Michele and he serves us our drinks and amuse bouche back there while we talk, read the IHT and drink. Eventually Rick joins us and before long, the girls, who have been checking every few minutes, inform us that our usual spot on the couches has opened up. We grab our stuff and high tale it to the bar area where we settle in and enjoy another round.
About seven we’re joined by Deborah and Gerry (aka TravelswithDeb from AOL). They’re staying at the Nazionale in Rome for two weeks after snagging some great deal on the Internet. She spies us lounging in the bar and seems to know immediately it’s us – wonder why ;).
It’s funny “meeting” people you’ve “known” for an extended period of time; it could be awkward or great fun. I’m happy to say meeting Deborah and Gerry was the latter. As a matter of fact, Gerry’s quite the hoot and I wish Deborah would convince him to post. Steph and Al join us too and eventually we head over to L’Orso Ottanta for our dinner.
This is our second meal at L’Orso Ottanta and if you love a large antipasti spread this is the place for you. They seat us at a slightly cramped table in the back of the side room (as opposed to the back room where we sat on our first visit). We tell them, antipasti della casa per sette persone and ordere vogole solamente for Becky and pasta for Ali and Sammi.
Well the Antipasti della Casa is amazing. Let’s see if I can remember everything:
Fresh Mozzarella
Prosciutto
Suppli
Pasta
Meatballs
Marinated Cauliflower
Marinated Artichokes (a bit tough in spots)
Ah see – I’m forgetting already – ….hmmm…..actually I’m blending memories of our first meal and this one.
Fried Eggplant (I think)
Assorted roasted peppers
Some sort of celery salad
Mushrooms
Ah heck – it’s all good. We sit and eat and talk and eat and drink and eat some more. Though no one orders dessert, we linger after receiving the bill and the waiter asks us to vacate as they have people waiting; that’s the problem when a restaurant gets popular.
We stroll back to the Piazza della Rotunda, partake in one last gelato of our trip and say good-bye to Deborah and Jerry. Lucky dogs, they still have more than a week left of their trip but we’re departing the next day.
